Tag: eyeliner

Revisiting Winged Liner: How to Make Your Eyeballs Fly

It didn’t occur to me until very recently that I was doing winged eyeliner wrong.

Not wrong, maybe, but not…optimally. I always erred on the side of conservative, ending with a slight curve at the very corner of the eye, yet stupidly wondering why I couldn’t achieve the same “uplifted” look that other girls had.

Source

Like this but less fierce. Source

As my guru idol Baby Smiley/Glowpinkstah instructs in her iconic Chola tutorial, “The wings of the liner will take you higher.”

My wings were more like uplifted smiles, which is oh-so-lovely and poetic until you realize that smiles don’t get you in the fucking air. I didn’t want smiles on my eyes. I wanted to soar like a goddamn falcon.

Baby wings.

But it was not meant to be, until one morning a few weeks ago when I was midway through a winged line. Amidst other profound thoughts (sandwich flavors ranked by mayo content, fanfiction ideas for obscure fandoms you’ll never know, and how to eliminate odors from trash bins) I decided, on a whim, to end the line sooner, and to flick at the most ridiculous angle I could imagine.

Obviously, my imagination was a bit stunted, because what resulted was a perfectly normal — dare I say, more than passable — winged line.

Now these are wings!

I think the issue is that the shape of my eyes requires the illusion of an uplifting boost, which is why I shouldn’t extend the wing all the way to the edge of the eye. Stopping just before the corner means that the main detail in the look – the flick itself – never sinks lower than the eye.

Also, because my eyelids are hooded, I need to begin with a steep angle so that when my eyes are open the flick “settles” into a more modest angle. I draw the flick at about 90 degrees from the slant of the outer corner, or roughly 45 degrees if based on a horizontal line across the eye.For a less crooked flick, I make a thicker line. It looks a little silly when my lids are lowered, but I’ll take the silliness some times for a decent wing most of the time.

I’ve also taken to “starting” the liner about half a centimeter from the inner corner from the eye. “Starting” is in quotations because I actually start with the flick, then sweep it towards the inner corner to make an outline, then fill in the edge. This is no innovative technique – I think several people do this already. I do it because there’s no point taking it to the inner corners, which are hidden behind the folds of my lids. I also think it lends to the illusion of looking more awake, which is my forever quest.

In this look, I’m using the K-Palette 1 Day Magic Liquid Eyeliner*. This liner lets me exert a huge amount of control and easily draw both thick and thin lines. I love that it’s a strong opaque black too and is pretty long-lasting. I regret not stocking up on this in Manila, as it’s the only thing I can count on at the moment to make these wings!

There’s nothing wrong with the original examples, and I’ll likely use them for other looks, but I’m really enjoying the look of the upturned flick. Also, this look is my current “makeup uniform” — I think I wear winged liner 4-5 days of the week now, with a random selection of Laura Mercier Caviar Sticks for dimension.

What are your tips on drawing a winged line? Are there any workarounds you have to do to accommodate your eye shape?

Eye of Horus Goddess Pencils in Nubian Brown and Serpentine Sultry

Eye of Horus Goddess Pencil Serpentine Sultry

The Eye of Horus Goddess Pencils* are my first introduction to Eye of Horus. Previously I’d only known them for their elegant gold-on-black packaging and a highly rated natural mascara. What I didn’t realize until becoming more acquainted with them is that the mystical Egyptian concept is carried out to its woo-woo fullest, permeating the brand like some old world incense.

The products are designed to “awaken the goddess within” while ingredients are described as ancient: ancient moringa oil, ancient malachite, mixed together using an ancient formula. Sacred secrets passed down through thousands of years. It sounds as if the very pencils in my possession have been pried from the mummified fingers of King Tutankhamun himself, bestowing upon me the powers to ward off evil, invoke the powers of Isis, and be babe magnet material at the next royal banguet, amirite?!

Girl, you wish your eyeliner game was as on point as mine. (Source: nationalgeopgraphic.com)

You wish you could rock it like Tut. (Source: nationalgeopgraphic.com)

Yet in the same breath, Eye of Horus is quick to extol modern virtues. Products are paraben free. Cruelty free. Made of natural ingredients suitable for sensitive skin. It’s Ancient Egypt meets health-conscious, eco-loving 21st century Australia. Does the meeting of the worlds work? Well, I’m not sure “ancient” and “paraben-free” ought to be in the same description. At the very least, it makes for some fascinating brand copy.

In any case, Eye of Horus doesn’t even need to push the Ancient Egyptian connection as hard as it does in its branding, because the Goddess Pencils speak for themselves. Creamy, densely pigmented, and non-budging, they’ve become my go-to eyeliners for almost any look.

The two shades I have are Nubian Brown and Serpentine Sultry.

Eye of Horus Goddess Pencil in Nubian Brown

Nubian Brown

Eye of Horus Goddess Pencil Nubian Brown

Nubian Brown is a deep matte chocolate brown. It looks black/purplish in the pencil, but it’s much lighter when applied.

Eye of Horus Goddess Pencil Serpentine Sultry

Serpentine Sultry

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Meanwhile, Serpentine Sultry is a warm olive with green and gold speckles. It looks relatively unremarkable here, but you can see the true beauty of this color once swatched. Each of the Goddess Pencils comes with a built-in smudge tool on the other end, which you can use to blend out harsh edges and smoke out the look.

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You can see how the shades appear much lighter on the skin than they might initially seem, and the gold speckles come out wonderfully in Serpentine Sultry. The richness of the brown is evident here too.

Nearly every eyeliner pencil promises a smooth velvety glide but few deliver – in this case, the Goddess Pencils definitely deliver. Almost to the point of requiring a bit of extra care when applying in very hot weather, but when I used Nubian Brown in Coron it wasn’t a disaster. In fact, no matter where I took them — and I took them everywhere — they performed well with no drag. They can apply a little thickly though, especially if the tip is already blunt.

One downside to applying is that when lining the outer corners of the eyes you have to make sure you’re holding the skin taut, because otherwise the liner will just skip over the tiny creases.

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Here’s Nubian Brown in two looks – a light eye and a smokey eye. On the left I kept the liner very close to the lashline. On the right I lined the outer corner of the eye and went over it and the lower lash line with the smudger. I like using Nubian Brown any time I use neutral eyeshadows because I am a groundbreaker.

eye-of-horus-serpentine-sultry

Here is Serpentine Sultry in a light look and a heavier look. I use it as a softer, more diffused alternative to black eyeliner. It’s dark enough to wear with red lipstick without looking like a Christmas decoration.

I’ve worn these all day with no melting or smudging, though fading at the inner corners of my eyes can occur. Whenever it has smudged, it’s because I’ve been sweating my face off in beach weather, or I rubbed my eyes during a nap I didn’t plan to take.

Despite the rave, these eyeliners aren’t perfect. They tend to run down fairly quickly due to their creaminess – I’m not at risk of running out yet, but I do sharpen these more often than the regular pencil. Another thing: be sure to have a sharp blade that can handle the soft wood and velvety texture. I use an Anastasia of Beverly Hills sharpener because these liners and the NARS sharpener do not get along.

Nicole Spierings from Eye of Horus Australia showcasing the range of Goddess Pencils. The electric blue looks promising!

Nicole Spierings from Eye of Horus Australia showcasing the range of Goddess Pencils. The electric blue looks promising!

Another thing: if you’re going to blend out the liners, be quick because once they dry that’s it. There they shall be, as beautiful and unmoving as the ancient pyramids from which they were unearthed. It doesn’t help that the smudging tool is quite stiff, and can be bit harsh on delicate upper lids for which I’ve docked packaging points (it’s much better run lightly along the lower lids). If you feel like using this liner as an eye base, warm it up first or work with lightning speed. But I learned my lesson with that experiment and it’s not for me!

Would repurchase.

Available at Glamourbox for P990.

*PR Sample