It didn’t occur to me until very recently that I was doing winged eyeliner wrong.
Not wrong, maybe, but not…optimally. I always erred on the side of conservative, ending with a slight curve at the very corner of the eye, yet stupidly wondering why I couldn’t achieve the same “uplifted” look that other girls had.
As my guru idol Baby Smiley/Glowpinkstah instructs in her iconic Chola tutorial, “The wings of the liner will take you higher.”
My wings were more like uplifted smiles, which is oh-so-lovely and poetic until you realize that smiles don’t get you in the fucking air. I didn’t want smiles on my eyes. I wanted to soar like a goddamn falcon.
But it was not meant to be, until one morning a few weeks ago when I was midway through a winged line. Amidst other profound thoughts (sandwich flavors ranked by mayo content, fanfiction ideas for obscure fandoms you’ll never know, and how to eliminate odors from trash bins) I decided, on a whim, to end the line sooner, and to flick at the most ridiculous angle I could imagine.
Obviously, my imagination was a bit stunted, because what resulted was a perfectly normal — dare I say, more than passable — winged line.
Now these are wings!
I think the issue is that the shape of my eyes requires the illusion of an uplifting boost, which is why I shouldn’t extend the wing all the way to the edge of the eye. Stopping just before the corner means that the main detail in the look – the flick itself – never sinks lower than the eye.
Also, because my eyelids are hooded, I need to begin with a steep angle so that when my eyes are open the flick “settles” into a more modest angle. I draw the flick at about 90 degrees from the slant of the outer corner, or roughly 45 degrees if based on a horizontal line across the eye.For a less crooked flick, I make a thicker line. It looks a little silly when my lids are lowered, but I’ll take the silliness some times for a decent wing most of the time.
I’ve also taken to “starting” the liner about half a centimeter from the inner corner from the eye. “Starting” is in quotations because I actually start with the flick, then sweep it towards the inner corner to make an outline, then fill in the edge. This is no innovative technique – I think several people do this already. I do it because there’s no point taking it to the inner corners, which are hidden behind the folds of my lids. I also think it lends to the illusion of looking more awake, which is my forever quest.
In this look, I’m using the K-Palette 1 Day Magic Liquid Eyeliner*. This liner lets me exert a huge amount of control and easily draw both thick and thin lines. I love that it’s a strong opaque black too and is pretty long-lasting. I regret not stocking up on this in Manila, as it’s the only thing I can count on at the moment to make these wings!
There’s nothing wrong with the original examples, and I’ll likely use them for other looks, but I’m really enjoying the look of the upturned flick. Also, this look is my current “makeup uniform” — I think I wear winged liner 4-5 days of the week now, with a random selection of Laura Mercier Caviar Sticks for dimension.
What are your tips on drawing a winged line? Are there any workarounds you have to do to accommodate your eye shape?